Photographs taken by Okello

Serving the World

I want to thank all of you- over 40 different people and families - who contributed so generously toward Kope Café. This project, more of an experiment as the first non-profit café of its kind, has been successful because, from day one, it started with selflessness. From Acholi artists who sacrificed countless hours of decorating, to the manager, Judith, who left London to work for free, laughing throughout the crazy opening months. The cafe is a work of love, and you all have continued this spirit of generosity.

Returning to Uganda and Kope Café was bittersweet. It is surreal being back in Gulu, where nothing has changed. The same people are posted on the same corners, the same women carry the same jugs of water from the well, the same little kids smile and wave on the sides of the dusty road. The scene is not nearly as lively or relaxing as the comforts of home this Christmas break. In fact, it is a bit difficult to adjust back, but I know that I am in the right place. After all, this is the place that has challenged me and stretched me creatively and personally beyond what I thought capable; I could not be here, or have the strength without the support of each of you. Nelson Mandela said, “"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness, that most frightens us. We ask ourselves, who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, and fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be? You are a child of God. Your playing small doesn't serve the world.” You have all played huge in my world, and now it is my turn to extend that generosity. Thank you for your support.

Hosting a meeting the second day I arrived back in Uganda, I sat inside Kope Café, now 3 months old, and looked around the room of bright characters. My heart quivered just knowing the effort they have each made to enable the café to function smoothly. My appreciation turned to invigoration as I announced that we now have the funds from my friends in America to fulfill many of their requests for improvement. There is a lot of work that needs to be done to make this café fully sustainable, well-attended and consistent. Construction on an outside patio starts today, and my hope is that within a couple of weeks we will double our seating capacity. The kitchen will receive proper attention, and the Chef will no longer have to bend down to cut fruit salads on a bench borrowed from HEALS.

In my dreams of September, I eat one last serving of chicken curry, wash my plate, and walk out the front door of a thriving café. My exit takes me through a lush outdoor patio from where I look back at the sign one last time, knowing that the cafe is serving its role as a community hub of creativity and culture. Turning down the street to head home I meet several kids from HEALS and take comfort in knowing that this community-run organization will never have to worry about finding 3 dollars to send a child to elementary school. And, as I return home to you all, the stories of success I bring will confirm that you were a part of this dream and that together, we truly served the world.

HEALS Dancers performing at the Grand Ceremony

Kope Cafe: day 2

I am elated. Sitting on a comfortable couch, listening to an old remix of Duran Duran in Kope Café brings about the most foreign feeling, while simultaneously, I feel closer to home than I ever have. I just got up off this comfortable couch, and after looking around at Ugandan Med School grads dining under reservation in a gleaming, lamp-lit room, I walk outside to ride my bike to the market. Riding away from the café, reality sets in outside of the picturesque “Disney-like” setting as it’s been described. Elderly women walk home with belongings on their heads, military men march past, toting AK-47s, smells of burning trash waft through sticky air. Kope Café which sits in the middle of downtown Gulu, is unlike any place around here. Cruising down the street, my sandals grazing the top of the pavement, I smile in gratitude at God’s blessing bestowed upon this café. My eyes well, close to crying by the beauty of this moment. A pinnacle peak of joy, and of awe. It has not been easy. It is amazing that on the second day of being open, I feel light-hearted enough to laugh at the last two and a half months. The challenges faced make this night even sweeter. Looking back on the restless nights in bed, when I could only pray to trust that this mess of a café, covered in cement, tree parts and dust would become a place to gather; Even this last week, hurried and chaotic, dipping into my personal finances to fund pots and pans, and stoves, I was a mess of excited and nervous energy. But if there’s one thing that naming a café Kope, (meaning “no worries”) in a town like Gulu, teaches me, it’s to slow down, and realize that operating in lightness is far more effective than running around in panic mode. As I pedal back towards the café, my thoughts dissipate upon seeing the café through the windows. In soft light, the glow of the café looks marvelous. A couple are snuggling on the couch. Another is eating face to face at a small table. Two people are sitting up in the tree house, amongst pillows they are laughing. And the recent graduates are enjoying liver- their request. The chef we hired has turned out to be fantastic. He makes exceptional dishes, fresh and innovative. I feel like he has been waiting his whole life for the opportunity to show off his true skills. And he loves the fact that we have given him full artistic freedom to make whatever he wants. So far, it has all had rave reviews. Steak salads, with his housemade Dijon vinagerette, vegetable curry with Thai noodles that I have not tasted since Thailand. I was in disbelief as I ran back to thank him, into the makeshift kitchen, with a gas stove top I bought for 50 bucks in Kampala, two “traditional” stoves made of car hubcaps, and a refrigerator we borrowed from Jolly’s sister. Amazing. I have no idea how he produces these dishes. I am seriously in disbelief anytime Linda brings something from the kitchen. I really don’t get it, but don’t want to get it. It adds to the mystique of how this place came to be. I feel like I should know best and yet, when my friends from Invisible Children how it came together, astonished that this dream of Jolly’s which has been planned for over a year, is finally realized, I have no clear concept of its development. I have God to thank and a number of incredible Acholi friends.
In two days, the place has transformed from being the bane of my lonely existence to a comfortable, relaxing and exciting place that brings together artists and great people to enjoy a space completely unique to Northern Uganda. Plus, I am lucky, so gratefully lucky to be working with my friends. Linda, who has become a great friend and who worked so hard, for free, painting and cleaning the café months before it opened, and Patrick, who donated over 35 hours painting the entire place with beautiful designs and murals. Plus Davis, who is going to start playing the keyboard on Saturday evenings. And we are in the process of booking a blind violinist for Sundays.
Sunday night is coming to a close. My friends from Invisible Children have just left. They had been in the café nearly all weekend. Confirming this place’s worth, they spent nearly the whole day here, some enjoying breakfast through dinner. We really had no place to hang out, beyond work and our home. So, we’ve kind of just transferred our usual conversations and atmosphere to the comfy living room style of the cafe. And our new hang out is far more beneficial for Gulu’s kids- with purchases going to fund the HEALS program for Acholi youth. I have already sung the Cheers theme song, which just enters my mind at this situation, where I no longer have to go and visit friends. They just appear through the double doors. My Mom last week sent money specifically instructed to spend on myself and something I would enjoy. Grateful, I used the money to buy speakers for the café. Not only does it make the place complete, but I am able to hook up my IPOD to the speakers and broadcast all of my favorite music beyond the confinement of my ears. Ugandans and Mzoongus alike have already brought in their favorite music by CD or MP3 player. It’s great to get a mix of music, as we’ll play anything- always announcing who’s music selection we are enjoying.
So, I am so grateful, in this completely honeymoon state- floating in the enjoyable and graceful pace of this café. I am in awe and complete gratitude for all those who helped bring this together. Jolly’s sister, Judith, who just returned from the UK, has played a big part in answering my prayers for help. She has taken over as manager/accountant and I could not be more grateful for this complete Godsend. Other than that, tomorrow is another day. We open at 8 am for coffee and tea. Then I start work at Invisible Children at 9am. I’ll plan to check up on the café around 11 am or so, through lunch and then back to the office until 5. I’ll try to do some exercise before making it over to help close the café by 8 pm or so. Busy but throughout this enormous process, I have been fueled by this inner drive to push on. And thankfully, now that our furniture has cushions, and my former paint storage room produces Thai vegetable curry, the job has become a lot more “Kope”.